I realized from a comment made in response to these blog posts that maybe I should talk about the bars that I enjoy almost every day. For those who may be a bit concerned that I have mentioned going to bars in several posts, rest assured I am not on a pub crawl or keg party disguised as a pilgrimage. The bars that I mention do usually have a few different bottled beers available and a beer or two on tap, but they’re also the main places in town where you can get a hot cup of coffee, some breakfast, fresh fruit, a cold coke, a loaf of bread, a sandwich for lunch, a refill on water, or some ice cream, and sometimes a more susbstantial meal. It’s basically ‘restaurant light’ where you get a little something to hold you over until the larger meals. That said, I do enjoy a beer (literally one beer) most days because it’s refreshing and I enjoy trying different beers.

The past few days have been pretty good. I’ve gotten a couple more blisters but I’m learning to live with them and have a little extra suffering to offer up for those who have asked for my prayers, as well as parishioners & benefactors, family & friends. My feet are just fine compared to many others, so I am grateful for that gift from the Lord.

A couple of days ago I left from Santo Domingo de la Calzada (did you read about the chicken story?!) and made my way to Belorado, where I was able to settle in at the albergue and have a bit of extra time to go pray at the parish church. The first 10 days or so were pretty good but I found it hard to find enough time to really pray because the schedule is pretty full if you’re trying to finish the pilgrimage in 35 days or so. I’ve noticed that I’m getting comfortable with the rhythm, know better what to expect, and find that there are more churches open in the towns. This is helping me pray more like I had hoped and, I trust, bringing me closer to Stage 3 of the Camino (as described by the albergue volunteer last week): Spiritual Life. Even the guidebooks indicate that the city where I am today seems to be the starting point of when relationships really grow, both with God and with others.

I skipped ahead there, so a little info on the actual walks. On Saturday I ascended a nice incline over the course of an hour and found myself in a place that felt like Middle Earth (Lord of the Rings). The paths in the woods were such that I was awaiting a shrill cry and a stampede of ring wraiths. I was confident that the pine forest I traversed would soon witness the passing of an army of elves. The wide open rocky ground at the top of the mountain was prime ground for an orc invasion. Thankfully none of those things happened, although the elves would have been nice to meet. It was a long walk but the imagination along the way and some rockin’ music to get my blood pumping helped make it bearable.

Yesterday I walked into Burgos, one of the major cities along the Camino. Yesterday was not a fun day, as most of it was just pounding my feet on pavement trying to get to the hotel on the opposite side of the city. It’s amazing how long it can take to walk through cities. For a few minutes I felt like Jonah walking through Nineveh, a rough-looking pilgrim marching through a city of nicely dressed people. Maybe I should have started preaching repentance along the way? Maybe in the next big city.

I decided to stay in Burgos a bit longer instead of immediately heading out this morning. I was able to concelebrate the daily Mass at the cathedral, go to confession (in Spanish!), spend some good time in prayer, tour the cathedral museum area, and found a chapel dedicated to Saint Ann where I prayed for all of my parishioners back home. With the day half done and all the nearby albergues full, I decided to take a taxi to the next town 6 miles away and I’ll resume the walking tomorrow morning. 12 days done, 21 or so more to go.

Thank you to all of you who are offering prayers for me. I don’t know if I’d make it without them.

The Chapel of St. Ann in The Burgos Cathedral.