I am officially a peregrino (pilgrim).

On Wednesday, August 28 I got off the plane in Biarritz, France and caught a taxi to St. Jean-Pied-de-Port. Tired, not properly nourished, and poorly hydrated from the plane ride, I decided to take on the hardest day of the Camino right away. I had booked a room at an albergue (hostel for Camino pilgrims) about 8 kilometers (approx 5 miles) up. 8km didn’t sound like much but when it’s all uphill and includes an elevation change of 700m (approx 2100ft) , it gets a lot more serious. I was dragging halfway to the end, stopping every 100 feet or so to catch my breath. Long about km 6.5, I was pretty sure this endeavored was the stupidest thing I had ever done and that I ought to quit and change plans for my time in Europe. I could barely walk 20 feet without stopping and I knew I had a ways to go. Fortunately, the Lord was with me. I told Him I’d happily wave down a taxi if one were to pass by. Keep in mind this is a little out-of-the-way country road that’s not highly travelled. But within a minute a car engine roared and a taxi appeared. I was able to hop in and get to my place for the night with a grateful heart and sore legs. To that point I had felt anything other than happy on my birthday. But the Lord picked me up a bit again when I had set up for Mass on a little table on the property. I was about to make the sign of the Cross when a voice from behind said, “Excuse me, Father. Are you saying Mass? Can I join you?” I welcomed him over and Mass was offered with myself and my friend Chris from England. He was so thrilled. He asked to take a picture after Mass and said, “I have to sent this to my wife. I got to go to Mass! A miracle on the first day!” It was really touching. At dinner I met some other folks making the Camino from LA and TX and had a great conversaotion. My birthday, though different than normal, was still a blessed one.

That night I called a taxi company inquiring about bringing me to the other side of the mountain that lie ahead of me on day 2. Several pilgrims tried to dissuade me, but I was set on that plan after what I lhad experienced on day 1. The next morning I got up and, not having heard from the taxi company, decided to try to make the walk. I got about 25 yards up the hill when I knew I wouldn’t be able to make it. I turned around, even as everyone was just starting out, and walked back to the house. As I was walking back my phone buzzed and it was the taxi driver asking when I wanted to leave. 15 minutes later I was riding to Roncesvalles, the first town in spain along the Camino. The gift of the taxi on both days, in the exact moments needed, showed me what the Lord desired of me. I had been prideful and stubborn before, feeling like I had to do the whole thing, like I had to prove myself to someone, like my worth was dependent upon what I could do. The Lord called me to humility and to accept this Camino pilgrimage as I am able to do it, not necessarily how I want to do it or believe it should be done.

That second day was okay. I could handle hills better than mountains, but doing 21km (14 miles) on rocky hills still works on you. That was yesterday and today and seemingly nearly every day ahead of me. But the Lord will provide. Despite the pain of the walking, the scenery has been utterly breathtaking at times. The mountains and hillside, lots of animals, scenic rivers and bridges, historic churches, and people from around the world provide more than enough fuel for praising god in His goodness. I enjoyed a lively conversation with a flock of geese this morning, but the horses I encountered were less inclined to talk to me. The herd of sheep was neat to see too as they grazed alongside the river banks. There are also, of course, the occasional cats around town.

A few other things I’ve learned so far: never pass up a drinking water font, never pass up a great rest spot, and never pass up a bathroom.

For now I will wrap this up because I’m getting tired and need to get some sleep for tomorrow. Thank you all for your prayers and be assured of my prayers for each of you as well.

St James the Apostle, pray for us!